Alvie Markowitz hard at work behind the counter at Jack's Deli and Restaurant

If soup merited inclusion in the Smithsonian Institution, Jack’s Deli & Restaurant would have the inside track on first-ballot honors. Regulars call it “Mish-Mosh” soup, and it more than lives up to that billing. Intensely flavored, hued of rich gold and laden with a girth-expanding symphony of noodles, rice, chicken, aromatics and softball-sized matzo balls, it is arguably the defining icon of its genre, not to mention an anti-viral weapon of mass destruction of such force that cold and flu strains tremble in its shadow.

Thankfully, soup is but a prelude to the gastronomic depth and breadth of Jack’s, a University Heights institution since 1980. In a glut of national chain restaurants, Jack’s remains local, humble, accessible and above all, driven by friendliness and quality. Founded by the late Jack Markowitz and son Alvie, Jack’s has served countless sandwiches, not to mention deli standbys such as blintzes, stuffed cabbage, chopped liver, kugel, knishes, potato pancakes and a dizzying array of menu mainstays. Markowitz says all dishes are made from scratch, using only the freshest ingredients – many of which are sourced from key outlets throughout the United States.

Jack’s Deli is located at 14490 Cedar Road, just around the corner from its original location of 25 years. Markowitz, who now co-owns the deli with partner Gary Lebowitz, says the restaurant moved in 2005 to accommodate its growing clientele, provide additional parking and boost its street visibility.

Based on the frenetic rush of a recent midday lunch service, the move clearly has worked well for ownership and patrons alike. “We really try to nurture a family feel here,” says Markowitz. “We like to think of ourselves as the Jewish ‘Cheers’ of Cedar-Green, where everybody knows your name.”

Indeed, employees at Jack’s seem to take a personal interest in the patrons, from the deli mavens behind the counter who make your sandwich to servers working the dining room. “Whatever’s happening in our customers’ lives, whatever’s happening in Cleveland, it usually gets talked about at Jack’s,” says Markowitz.

Service and ambiance aside, food remains the primary attraction for many. Thankfully, the expanded digs, with its open kitchen, updated earth-toned walls, gleaming cabinetry, and comfy booths and chairs, accommodates 50 percent more customers than the old space. That’s plenty of room for a fiercely loyal legion of deli denizens – some hailing from as far away as Ashtabula – to enjoy the essence of Jewish delicatessen cuisine. And where ethnic food is concerned, room – especially in and around the waistline – remains a valuable commodity.

Consider, for example, the Triple Decker, a conglomeration of corned beef, hot pastrami, Muenster cheese, and lettuce and tomato buttressed by thick slices of rye bread and served with creamy cole slaw and Thousand Island dressing. For those seeking a less-nuanced path to caloric nirvana, there’s the Fressers Delight – corned beef layered atop two potato pancakes and served with apple sauce or sour cream – or both. Looking to ride along ethnic cuisine’s cutting edge? Then consider the boiled flanken – a cut of meat taken from the short ribs of beef, and a true cult classic.

Other esoteric options include the Romanian skirt steak and of course, that ubiquitous and outrageously indulgent symbol of Bubby-goodness -- goose liver. For something truly unique, try Jack’s legendary pickled tongue on challah – an otherworldly delicacy sure to leave you (not to mention the cow) speechless. Sandwiches are, by any standard, towering, while the requisite sides – from potato salad, farfel and noodle kugel to crisp dill pickles – comprise a veritable who’s who of deli royalty.

Jack’s also features nine soups daily; a near-limitless assortment of hot and cold sandwich combinations; a full range of dinner selections; grilled entrees ranging from patty melts and burgers to jumbo Vienna-style hot dogs and chicken breasts; a surprising variety of salads; and a veritable bounty of the sea that includes Nova lox, sable, smoked whitefish, and creamed and chopped herrings. Breakfast also is available throughout the day, with specials running through 11 a.m.

The restaurant biz will never be easy, and Jack’s is no exception. Sixty-hour weeks are the norm for Markowitz, and the challenge of meeting high customer service expectations remains constant. Clearly, though, he enjoys the payoffs. “I grew up here in University Heights, so I feel at home every day I come to work,” he says. “This community has very friendly people, and what really is satisfying is watching families who frequent the restaurant grow – seeing the different generations over time. From grandfather to father to son – we really become very close with our customers. It’s special.” Jack's Deli and Restaurant is located at the intersection of Cedar Road and South Green Road, facing Cedar Road. Hours: Monday – Saturday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. The restaurant closes early on Jewish and national holidays.